saving ink • Polish Winters: A Survival Guide

Polish Winters: A Survival Guide

This is part of my ongoing series of articles that I’ve written for Airgate magazine, one of my glamorous freelance writing gigs. This one is especially timely, considering I’m taking off for Texas in a couple of weeks, to escape the Polish winter (or at least a few months of it). Enjoy!

So, it’s your first Polish winter, you say? How hard can it really be to survive, you wonder. Or perhaps you’re a seasoned veteran of the blistering cold and are more interested in thriving rather than merely surviving? We here at Airgate care about your well-being, so whether you’d like tips for staying warm or enjoying your time out in the snow (or ideally, both!), read on.

Plan A: Get the **** out!

One might consider leaving Poland for the winter to be cheating, but I consider it as a way to maintain your sanity (and desire to live). Of course, it may be difficult or downright impossible to migrate south for months at a time due to your job, school, family responsibilities or lack of financial resources, but that doesn’t mean you can’t make a more temporary escape when you need it most.

If you have a limited amount of holiday time allowed by your workplace, perhaps consider cutting that summer trip to the Baltic shorter this year (chances are it’ll rain anyway) and reserving yourself a “sanity week” come February or March or whenever you feel that spending another day looking at dirt- and dog dropping-covered snow might just drive you to consider a swan dive off the Town Hall Tower. There are plenty of warmer destinations within a few hours’ direct flight from Kraków (but you’re reading an airport magazine so you know that already), such as Rome, Italy or Alicante in Spain. You can even catch a charter flight to North African climatic paradises such as Egypt or the Canary Islands, where the average temperature in January is 17.6°C (quite nice when compared to Kraków’s January average of −2.1°C… ouch!).

Plan B: Bundle up

This may go without saying, but I have a word count to fill so I’ll say it anyway: durable, high quality winter clothes are worth their weight in gold during the cold months. Sure, your brand new trainers may be wicked right now, but come February you’ll regret sacrificing warmth for fashion when it’s -30 and you haven’t felt your toes since Christmas and are wondering if they’re still even there. A great pair of waterproof, insulated boots is indispensable come snowfall, as are the inserts (wkładki) you can buy at any shoe store for added protection. As far as jackets go, you don’t necessarily have to pay a small fortune for branded mountain trekking gear approved for -200°C with a built-in polar bear repellent (though if you plan on spending a lot of time in the Tatras, that might just come in handy), but one solid, thick jacket that’s waterproof and durable is worth shelling out a few more złoty for, particularly if you plan on spending many more winters here.

Finally, the art of layering is a good one to master. Just remember: it’s always easier to remove extra layers if you’re too warm than hope an extra layer magically materialises when you’re too cold.

Plan C: When in doubt, stay indoors

Part of Kraków’s charm is its abundance of cosy cafes, bars and restaurants, and that charm is only amplified when you’re sitting by a fire, drinking mulled wine or beer while outside snow is falling. Winter is the perfect time to explore all of those places you meant to check out during warmer days, especially if they serve hot beverages (and most do).

However, if you decide to spend most of your time in your own flat or home, be aware that your heating bills may reach astronomical proportions. There are two ways to prepare: first, put aside extra money into a “winter fund” when your bills are low in the summer, so that even a higher than expected electric or gas bill won’t put you out on the street. Some utility companies even do this automatically, by charging an averaged bill that’s identical each month and is based on your prior usage.

Second, be wise in your use of electricity or gas, both in terms of heating your flat as well as heating the water you use. Most utilities have “savings times” such as the hours between 10 pm and 6 am, and perhaps an hour or two in the afternoon, when the cost of that utility is half price (taryfy nocne). Ask your landlord or utility company when these times are, and then invest in a 12-złoty timer from Tesco or the like that will let you automatically set the heater or water heater to operate only during low cost hours.

Plan D: Embrace the cold!

The old adage “if you can’t beat them, join them” certainly applies in the case of Polish winters. While you cannot change the fact that the next few months may be unbearably cold at times and weeks may pass without you seeing the sun, you can make the best of the situation by taking up a winter sport such as skiing or snowboarding. There are several slopes within an hour or even half-hour drive of Kraków, and for longer expeditions there is the relative proximity of Zakopane, northern Slovakia or even Austria. Missing the sun? Try night skiing! Need a break from the slopes? Just about every half-decent ski lift has an adjacent diner with plenty of hot soup and mulled wine to warm you back up.

If you spend your time enjoying the cold rather than griping about it (and I suggest leaving griping in the hands of the local professionals), before you know it the sun will return and the cafes on the Market Square will be pulling their outdoor furniture back out from the cellars. And remember – when in doubt, there’s always Plan A!